Clicking on most of the photos in this article will take you to their source websites and larger image sizes.
On my recent trip to Pakistan, I tried to re-live some of the fondest memories of my early youth. One of them was daily travel in public buses during my college days. In order to relive that experience, I decided to take a trip to Empress Market by bus.
Photo to the left shows Empress Market. I took this photo from the overhead pedestrain bridge on the morning of Jan 11, 2007.
At Karaimabad market bus stop, I made a hand gesture to an approaching route 5C bus. The bus driver made eye contact with me and acknowledged by slowing down. The norm in Karachi is that a bus never comes to a full halt for a single ‘sawari’ (passenger) because monetary profits from a single passenger fare is not worth breaking the engine motion. 
Therefore when bus slowed down to a speed of approximately 5 kmph, I quickly jumped in by grabbing on to the hand rail. It was a proud moment for me to realize that after all these years I have not forgotten the art of climbing onto a moving bus. I looked around the bus with the face of a conquerer but no one paid any attention to me so I meekly sat down at the first available seat.
Photo to the above right shows birds eye view of Empress Market. This photo is courtesy of Ali Zasami.
5C bus dropped me at the Preedy Street stop near Empress Market. Empress Market is named in commemoration of the jubilee of Queen of England who at the time of construction of this building (1884-1889) was also the ‘Empress’ of India.
Photo to the left shows the southern entrance of Empress Market.
My plan today was to walk to the Rainbow Center and buy some music CDs. There was all kinds of business going on in and around Empress Market. It was a scene of total chaos and still everyone knew what they were doing. First I passed through a series of road-side dentists. Some of them had Chinese sounding names. Chinese dentist have a reputation of being best in the trade and Empress Market area boasts a large concentration of Chinese dentists. Some of these dentists had strategically placed their salesmen out on the sidewalk from where they were luring in customers. I was offered a full set of dentures for Rs 1000 without even looking at my teeth.
I also saw a super human size set of dentures on display which was so big that it could’ve easily fit in a horse jaw.
Photo to the right is the Empress Market Clock Tower facade in gray scale.
Before I go further with my account of Empress market trip I want to mention a ‘sher’ which has suddenly come to my mind while writing these lines:
kal jin daaNtoN se huNstay the khil khil
aaj wohi dard se rulaatay haiN hil hil
(yesterday the teeth which made me laugh as hee hee
today make me cry with pain as hoo hoo)
After I survived the dentists alley with all my teeth intact, I entered the historic Empress Market. Despite the traffic congestion in this area, the imposing structure of Empress Market is hard to ignore. 
It was designed by the Karachi municipal engineer, James Strachan in neo-Gothic, Victorian-Gothic or what is now called as Indo-Gothic style and is one of the best known landmarks of Karachi.
Photo to the left shows a night shot of Empress Market lit in monumental lighting.
The foundation stone of the building was laid on November 10, 1884 by Sir James Fergusson, the then Governer of Bombay. Foundation work of the building was done by the contracting firm of Mr. J.S. Attfield of Lahore and the superstructure was built by Messrs. Wali Mahomed Jiwun and Dulloo Khejo of Karachi. Empress Market was inaugurated on March 21, 1889. At the time of inauguration, Empress market had accommodation for 280 shops. The day I visited, there was ‘hamara Karachi’ festival going on and as part of the festivities, Pakistan Rangers had brought out their official pipe band to play merry tunes infront of the Empress Market Clock Tower. This clock tower is 140 feet high with a large chiming clock, and skeleton iron dials placed on all four sides. 
When I looked up, I was happy to see that clock was not olny working but also showing the correct time. For record keeping purposes, this was at 11:50 a.m. on the morning of January 11, 2007. Proof lies in the top most photo of this article.
Photo to the right shows a spice sellar inside Empress Market
Across the road, thirty or so school children were sitting under a make-shift tent. They were also put on display as part of hamara Karachi festivities. I don’t know why were they sitting there and what was their aim for the day.
For those who are interested in knowing Karachi’s role in Nationalist movements of India, Empress Market is located on the site where native sepoys were strapped to the mouth of cannons and blown to pieces as punishment for their involvement in the first war of independence in 1857.
Photo to the left shows herb oils for sale in wine bottles in Empress Market. The equipment to produce herb oil (e.g. crushed almond oil) is also visible in this photo.
After I crossed the Empress Market proper, I reached the ‘neelam gali’ (bidding alley). Here all the shop keepers had megaphones in their hands and were selling small and petty items to highest bidders. A large number of simpletons had gathered around these shops and were buying things as if there was no tomorrow. While I was walking by, many shopekeepers tried to lure me into buying stuff by offering wrist watches for as low as Rs 20.
Infront of bidding alley there was a group of quacks selling cure for all worldly and heavenly problems. They had a solution for all kinds of diseases ranging from minor head-aches, to dwindling democracy in the country, to fixing ‘zalim mahboob’ (unkind beloveds) to curing AIDS. Somebody was also selling aphrodisiacs extracted from snakes.
Photo to the right is from Dawn, and shows a snake medicine stall in Empress Market area.
I was totally over whelmed by so much action going on around me. But this was not the end of it. As I turned the corner from Preedy Street to Mansfield Street (now called Syedna Burhanuddin Road), 
I saw a big anti-encroachment police operation going on against the Inter-city bus terminals. City government was trying to move these bus companies out of the city and there was resistance. But just 300 yards away where I was standing, life was as normal and serene as could be. I carelessly walked into the Rainbow Center. Time was around noon but still only couple of shops were open. I quickly bought the music CDs I was looking for and walked out towards the famous Student Biryani restaurant (shown in photo to the left). This famous restaurant is located at a walking distance behind the Rainbow Center.
From here I walked to the Bohri bazaar, made a big walking circle and came back to the bus stand at Frere Street (now called Dr. Daudpota Road). This time I took a Route 4L bus (shown in the photo to the right) and reached home after paying a one-way fare of Rs 7. During my college days in 1987-89, this fare used to be Rs 0.30 (with student ID). Another number that I want to throw out there is that construction project of the whole Empress Market cost Rs 1,20,000 in 1884-1889. Now one can probably build only 1 or 2 shops with such money. Inflation is on the rise guys.
One last history lesson, before I key-off is that Mr. Pitchard, the then commissioner, at the opening ceremony of Empress Market pointed out that only one market in whole British Presidency surpasses Empress Market in beauty and grace. This was a big tribute to Empress Market at that time.
Trivia: The only other market which according to Mr. Pitchard surpassed Empress Market of 1889 in architecture and facilities was Crawford Market of Mumbai.
A 1960s Photo of the Empress Market
This photo is courtesy of Dr. Ghulam Nabi Kazi.
Views of Empress Market
through History
Owais Bhai ,
Great post, I really enjoyed it. I remember I used to go from Adamjee College takin 4K bus to DJ college to meet my friends and whatever you said reminds me those days. Also I used to see those Hakims who also had those scary Lizards which are called SANDA (IGUANAs in english which I last saw my trip to the Carribean ). They used to extract oil from them to cure diseases. I would like a phyisican to comment on that as well ). Also interesting things they used to have was Owl’s meat which they claim to cure all mental , physical and spiritual issues.
There was an animal market from where you can get birds and animals from all over the world.
I used to buy those australian love birds.
Just went to PK for the first time_to meet my father´s family and see where 50% of me is from. Nice to see your viewpoint as a westernized Pakistani. what I saw.
Owais Sahab!
I have no words to praise this awesome post. I don’t think one could give such a comprehensive and attractive intro of famous Empress market like you. You covered everything. I wonder whether you got chance to experience W-11?
Adnan
I didn’t experience W-11 on this trip but for better part of my life I’ve travelled in it many times. Once I’ve had the privilege of taking W-11 from its one terminal to other, which is Kimari to New Karachi. In 1986-87, W-11′s last stop at New Karachi used to be total wilderness. I used to go there from Karimabad to play cricket by W-11. Roads were marked but there were no houses built. These empty roads were then used as cricket pitches. Many cricket matches were played there simultaneously.
Awesome post :) Btw Owais Sb., you have missed the bird and animal shops and the kite wallas
I am so familiar with Preedy, Frere, Mansfield. Somehow names like Syedna Burhanuddin or Daudpota Road etc have not caught on except for when postal addresses are involved. Karachiites should resist this change of names. Awesome post. There is a pretty reasonable sea-food market inside Empress market that is worth a visit and take my advise, go to the market in the early morning hours. The experience is pretty unique
Karachi is always yours :)
@Owais:there was NO new Karachi in 86/87? what about North Karachi or Shadman area?did they exist at that time?
Kashif, ah yes,birds,kites and choozays :>
Lalulhet is also famous for “Itwar Bazar” for birds
Excellent post. I wonder how many people noticed the large building in the right hand corner of the last photo. There used to be a compound of absolutely gorgeous homes enroute from Empress market to St. Patricks. They were occoupied by the Karachi Christian community, aka Goanese, and had fallen in sad disrepair, almost a slum. I wonder if the monstorous building replaced those homes – now that Karachi’s vibrant Christian community has fled the country.
Behind the Empress is Jamshed gardens, which I believe Cowasjee fought a campaign to prevent from sale to the building mafia – once worth a visit. If you had 25 paisa and the courage to spare – you could take off your shirt under a tree and have a malashia give you champii (anglophiles, that’s a masseur and a massage, not champagne)!
There used to be a shop which sold mango ice cream, situated on the left side of the market -I have not had better ice cream in four continents; Baluch, the other ‘worlds best ice cream place’, situated beyond Bhori Bazaar, is probably a runner-up.
Adnan
New Karachi was there but a much smaller community than what it is now.
North Karachi was also the same story in late 80s.
Being a female I never able to devour all the fun empress market has to offer but your post has fulfilled my desire somewhat :D. I should add excellent choice of photo galleries. Tank you for introducing an artist Ubro (herbal oil photo culprit ;) to us.
i remember the machi and paya market behind empress market, the stench and the sight was the worst i experienced but the payas tasted the best!
Salamalikum,
[quote post="543"]Adnan
New Karachi was there but a much smaller community than what it is now.
North Karachi was also the same story in late 80s. [/quote]
I don’t think this is true. I’m from North Karach and we moved there in 1985 when I was three years old, and if I can remember correctly, it was definitely much more populated than New Karachi. But, it’s true it was nothing compared to today’s North Karachi. If North Karachi was somewhat populated, Adnan, I think then Shadman Town must have been at the same level or even more populated.
Intresting!
It would be intresting as well as informative if some “old” visitor can make a post about Karachi in 70s and 80s? I was told that in Ayub era, there was no buffer zone area and Karachi ended on North nazimabad which had same status as Blue Area of Islamabad.
Great description of Empress Market the city government has now installed lights in it but they still need to clean the surroundings.
Jamal
Some people brought up the bird market into the discussion. The one bird I remember vividly at Empress Market was the one hanging upside down over a large cauldron of “chicken corn soup”. The thelay wala used to pour soup over it as if it still contained some flavor. My best friend and I used to walk to Empress Market everyday from Adamjee and we had “all you can drink” open invitations for each other to enjoy the soup; strangely none of us ever had the courage to take up this grand offer. Over the two years that we had that schedule, I don’t think the chicken was changed even once and it went through more color changes than there are colors in the rainbow. I wonder if it’s still there.
Great post, Owais !
Great post and well written. Though, personally I have never used the bus system in Karachi other than during school field trips when our school would charter a bus – I must say you have truly captured the Karachi experience. Karachi is a vibrant and fascinating city – whether viewed through the eyes of public transport or your private car. Driving the streets of Karachi can be a well worth challenge – or for that matter crossing the streets or as you so eloquently described hopping on to a moving bus. That is our Karachi, my Karachi – Karachi O’ Karachi, the City of Lights and the City of Life. Again thanks for posting this wonderful article :-).
Reliving the past 4 weeks through this historical lesson. I suppose I may have passed you that day as I arrived around the same time to do some browsing in Rainbow Centre by way of Student Biryani and seeing the humara Karachi festivities taking place. Ofcourse doing this with another ‘Western’ female cousin was interesting as we noticed there were not many women unaccompanied in that general vicinity. Thank you for the post- I feel very nostalgic!
Thank you for this post Owais, Empress Market along with the Electronics market (next to the Passport office) were two of my favorite places in Sadar.
I used to live in Nazimabad, and used both 4L and 2K to get home. I think the one way full fare was Rs. 1.50 in late 1990s.
I miss the hawkers and chunda-walay (donation collectors) who used to get on the bus. Then there were those silent beggers who used to drop cards in every passenger’s lap and collect them back before the next bus stop.
Faraz where in nazd? I used to live in nazimabad no.1 near relax cinema which doesn’t exist anymore.
[quote post="543"]who used to drop cards in every passenger’s lap and collect them back before the next bus stop.[/quote]
usually little girls with cards with famous shair:
Mali ne phool tora….
something like that and I don’t remember the entire shair:-)
Salamalikum,
[quote post="543"]The thelay wala used to pour soup over it as if it still contained some flavor. My best friend and I used to walk to Empress Market everyday from Adamjee[/quote]
You must really liked that soup. This is a long walk, especially if one is going every day. I would guess it’s 1.5-2 miles between the two places.
[quote post="543"]I used to live in Nazimabad, and used both 4L and 2K to get home. I think the one way full fare was Rs. 1.50 in late 1990s.[/quote]
Late 1990s? Are you sure? I know mini-bus fares were at least Rs. 2 or Rs.3 by late 1990s. But, 2K is always cheaper. I used to get on 2K from its stop in front of Bahyani Center.
[quote post="543"]I used to live in nazimabad no.1 near relax cinema which doesn’t exist anymore[/quote]
I was born when my parents used to live in Nazimabad #3, across Ahbab Sweets–just before Abbassi Shaheed Hospital.
Adnan Siddiqi,
Are you talking about these lines which you don’t remember ?
”Mali nay phool torra bulbul ka dil dukha kar
Bulbul nay baagh chorra aanso baha baha kar”
Dear Owais,
Excellent informatory piece! I know now, why you were unable to reach us for the lunch, the same day :)
Bhai thora agey Regal Chowk aur Abudullah Haroon Road tak aa jatey to hum sey bhi mulaqat hojati aur aik naya mowad (material) bhi mil jata ;-)
Oh yes susan. Exactly the same lines. Thanks!
seems lots of nazimabadis are here.
BTW, Nazimabad is very famous due to some of residents. People like AQ Khan,Dr.Shah[AO Clinic],Anwar Maqsood,Ibn-e-Safi,Zaheer ABbas, Allama Talib Johari,Quresh Pur and last but not least President Musharraf used to live in Nazimabad. There are many others as well but I don’t remember their names at the moment.
Interestingly the ‘bidding alley’ which I visited in this article was also visited recently by a Dawn correspondent Ali Hazrat Bacha, and he wrote this full news item in today’s news:
http://www.dawn.com/2007/02/06/local16.htm
I love the way the exteriors of buses and trucks are done-up in Pakistan and was reminded of that by one of the photos that have been posted here. :)
Sidhusaheb shukria. Yes the buses of Pakistan are very colorful. I don’t know where did this cultute developed. May be b/c bus is the livelihood of driver or owner so they wanted to make it most presentable in their own taste of art and it developed into this institution of bus decoration now.
On your next visit to Pakistan, do plan few days for Karachi and Empress Market.
Found a beautiful night shot of Empress Market here:
I have been US since 1985. In the past five years I have been to Karachi about 4 times. My most recent visit was in May 2006. I had never cared about Karachi since I moved to America but my recent visit chaged everything. I fell in love with our beloved Karachi. I have more respects for karachittes more than I ever had before. People are hard working and they surviving in the most difficult situation they dont complain and they put up everything.
Long live Pakistan Long live Karachi.
Found another beautiful photo of Empress Market at flickr.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/iqbalkhatri/428475555/
3 NIGHT PHOTOS of Empress market can be seen here. links taken from Flickr.com
(1)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/karachi/429670953/in/photostream/
(2)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/karachi/429670960/in/photostream/
(3)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/karachi/429670943/in/photostream/
I HAVE INQUIRY FROM BANGLA DESH FOR 3000 MT OF RED LENTILS (DAL MASOOR) AND SEEK THEIR PRICES FROM WHOLE STOCKISTS. 4 SAMPLES ARE ALSO SOUGH TO SEND. PLS CONTACT IMMEDIATELY.
FAREED BROTHERS
Ph 92 42 5846487 Cell 0346 4441299
Dawn reported that as of 4/29/07, the clocks at Empress Market tower are not working
Another view of Empress Market at flickr:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/araza/509716668/
Hello Owais,
It was quite a delight and also coincidental to come across this article of yours on the empress market. Coincidental because i myself am from near karimabad and thats the place from where i have always taken the 5C bus which would drop me to preedy street. And i have always like you been taken away by the realm of liveliness of everything that saddar beholds! I just came back from lahore in summer break and was craving to get back on the buses and just go around and look around at my city again.
I happen to be an art student- i am actually in the process of organizing an art exhibition at empress market- a public art show to be precise by the 2nd week of august. I was really intrigued by the history of the site of the empress market “a place where native sepoys were blown to pieces in 1857″. I wanted to know how credible is this info-what are your sources. You can write to me at fazalrizvi@hotmail.com…..this is urgent, i’ll be waiting. Perhaps you could also help us out with the exhibit- reply asap. please. I might be basing my work on this piece of info that u have stated so i just want to make sure.
Thanks,
Fazal
Dear Fazal
i got the information about Empress market being a venue where 1857 soldiers were tried from a book called: “Karachi Travel Guide” written by the famous architect Yasmeen Lari and published by Heritage Society and Oxford University Press, edition 2000 and page number 6.7. I own a copy of this book. You can quote this book if you are going to use above information.
Another photo of Empress Market here:
Photo of Empress Market Clock
I am looking for information on the role of Karachi and Sindh in the 1857 War of Independence. Two references: On 10th Septemebr 1857, there was a military revolt in Karachi; and Empress Market area was used to hang the rebels. Can anyone help me to find more information please?
Thanks
Photo of an official logo at the Empress Market Gate.
Photo of the Empress Market Official Plaque
Thank you so much for reminde me of my past.
I use to go Govt Premeir College from 1979-82 by 6A rout.
I live in the State for last 22 years and never went back.
Another beautiful photo of Empress Market Clock Tower is Here
A night view of Students Biryani place is here
Ovais Mughal ji
Thanks for such a marvelous sight of Karachi.
Her Royal Highness The sublimissime Empress of
Karachi
Your Majesty,
It is with enormous joy & happiness that we enhance
your very existance amoung Karachiites, with your
sublime sensual, gothic and baroque mixture of fairytale
presence in a Fairyland, situated just the outskirts of
Saddar, inviting millions, serving them with what ever
they required since 1889.
The best cheddar and Marmelade available for
all amateurs, amoung other delicatesants, one can find there, rivalrying with Bolton and Lee markets later
on, at the other end of Karachi, and the Mathai walas in between, was indeed a dream gone far away now.
Can someone also tell us about Denso hall?? very near to
“Napier Road ” and the famous Pakistan’s basic and
biggest wholesale market Marriott Road. etc etc
Karachi, the lovable, the adorable!!!!
I recently found these precious photos of Empress Market at flickr.
(1) Photo of an emblem at Empress Market Gate
(2) Empress Market, Courtyard View
(3) Erosion of Empress Market sandstone
(4) Electrical Supply Mess at Empress Market
oh man i am impressed.. its great.. i came across this site while searching for my project report (thesis) which is abt the road side dentists in pakistan… i am in london doing my masters.. i found ur site very informative,,, keep it up
Photo of Student Biryani restaurant here
Owais Mughal,
thanks for ” only” the photo of Student Biryani Resto,
and no Biryani or even a “deg” of Biryani which is so
stimulant for human race to carry on living with
mouth-watering hope to have nothing but a plate full of
heavenly Biryani, chickin or mutton. BTW this monument
was also built by the famous Silla-wata quam in Karachi
who had built KMC, Sindh High court, N. Assembly, see my
comment on KMC by Miss Unaiza Nasim.
I am so glad to see this pics espically ur biography about empress market ……boss im EMPRESED
Nice and informative post; I came across this post while searching information on Empress Market. Needless to say that your facts helped me a lot. Keep up the good work.
karachi is the best, has been, will be Inshallah
Asslamaoalaikum,
Your article is very good indeed. I have gone so many years back to the past myself to my college days which is around 1989. I am settle in USA now and a US Citizen however Karachi is still in my heart. Yes i still think the base fare is the same however it would be difficult for me to jump the slowing bus. The thing is “Time pass by either good or bad but leaves the memory in heart and my heart still in Karachi”. Good work Ma-Shallah.
My comments concerning the name of the market.
It was named after a Queen lived in England centuries ago. Now she is dead so is the English regime, then why in this world Pakistani still insist on keeping their names. Don
I FEEL GLAD TO VISIT PLACES LIKE EMPRESS MARKET. IT NEEDS TO BE PROTECTED AND MAINTAINED AS CULTURAL HERITAGE. WE HAVE CENTURIES OLD “DERAWAR FORT”, “PURANI KOTHI” AND OTHER PALACES AT BAHAWALPUR. LIVE LONG PAKISTAN.
A 1960′s photo of Empress Market added to the post towards the end. Photo is courtesy of Dr. G.N. Kazi
Now settled in Canada…
I went to BVS school and than St. Patrick’s college…and use to go by Empress market and the area around. Sorry to say but the Empress market is not so impressive and the Student biryani…well… lets just say I went there once and that was it. I guess everyone has a different taste but I do miss the Karachi nihari/naan….nothing like it. And I also miss the kabob roll from silver spoon at Tariq Road. But thats about as far as dining is concerened. Overall I dont miss Karachi at all.
BAHAWALPUR IS A GREAT CITY WITH A WEALTH OF CULTURAL HERITAGE. WE MAY COME FORWARD AND PROTECT ITS OLD BUILDINGS AND HISTORICAL INSTITUTIONS.
میرا نام راشد اشرف، کیمیکل انجینیر، مقیم کراچی ۔۔۔ ابن صفی پر پہلا آرٹیکل 1995 میں لکھا جس کا نام قلم کا قرض تھا۔ ابن صفی پر نئی ویب سائٹ کا اجرا جولائی سن دو ھزار نو میں کیا۔۔۔ 23 اگست دو ھزار نو کے جنگ انٹرنیٹ ایڈیشن میں تقریب ابن صفی ایک مکالمہ کی مکمل رپورٹ لکھی — 25 جولائی دو ھزار نو کو بزنس ریکارڈر میں ابن صفی پر آرٹیکل لکھا —- 26 جولائی دو ھزار نو کو ابن صفی کی برسی کے موقع پر آج ٹی وی پر خبر میں آمد۔
http://www.wadi-e-urdu.com ابن صفی پر نئی ویب سائٹ
فرزند ابن صفی، جناب احمد صفی کے ہمراہ ریڈیو چینل ایف ایم 105 پر چھبیس نومبر دو ھزار نو کو ڈیڑھ گھنٹے کے براہ راست انٹرویو میں آمد
karachi ur such a magnificient city—–ur historical architecture shows ur importance in old days—–always there in my heart
i liked it tooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
I just came back from empress market and that place is truly a dump. the condition of the shops is awful: thousands of flies swarm the fruit, veggies, and meat; the smell is horrid; beggars are everywhere, etc. Worst of all is the condition that the animals are kept. I felt so bad when I saw the poor dogs in tiny cages sitting in their own waste. Exotic birds of prey that should not be in cages in the first place. monkeys that only have enough space to turn around. Believe it or not I saw a cage with 2 birds, one of which was dead.
It is a shame those people can call themselves muslims when they treat Allah’s living creations like they are toys.
A nice online Safari to historical city…unseen face of Karachi