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Shandur Festival: Polo at the Roof of the World

Posted on July 7, 2008
Filed Under >Manzoor Ali Shah, Culture & Heritage, Sports, Travel
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Manzoor Ali Shah

The 2008 edition of Pakistan’s famous Shandur Polo festival starts today. It will continue for three days. This polo tournament, organized by Gilgit and Chitral polo clubs, will be played at Shandur Pass which is considered as the the highest Polo Ground in the World.

"Shandur"Shandr"Shandur"Shandur

The game of polo has been played for a long time in the world, but in Pakistan it sometimes assumes mythical importance

Pakistan’s northern areas are famous for their natural beauty. They have awe-inspiring mountains, serene lakes, roaring rivers and gigantic glaciers. But the game of polo attracts many a visitor to the region for reasons other than watching nature’s munificence.

Polo is one of the oldest games played in the world. And the northern areas are known for the kind of polo played here. Every year, in the second week of July, polo teams from Chitral and Gilgit face each other in Shandur — the world’s highest polo ground. This event dates back to old colonial times when in the ‘30s a British political agent, Maj Evelyn Cobb, who was fond of playing the game in the moonlit Shandur, initiated polo matches in the area.



"ShandurThe photo on the right shows Shandur valley. This photo is courtesy of Kamran Safdar at flickr.com

The Shandur pass is situated about 3,738 metres above sea level and lies between Gilgit and Chitral. It is 147 km from Chitral and 211 km from Gilgit. In the winter, it remains frozen due to the heavy snowfall that engulfs everything beneath its white blanket. At the end of the spring season, this area — a plateau among the Hidukush Mountains — becomes a lush green land. And the greenery with galloping horses, the zealous spectators and the tent city in the high Hidukush underneath the open skies in the background of the Shandur Lake, present a magical view.

As Shandur has a mythical importance in Chitrali folklore, it is said that it is the abode of the fairies (Shhawanan), and at night these fairies come down to the lake and splash its water.

Nowadays, open air cultural festivities, including dance shows and concerts, are held here during nighttime as part of polo matches in which maestros from Gilgit and Chitral enthral the audiences with their performances. And during daytime, polo matches catch the public’s attention.

An international polo match is divided into six chukkers (circles), each is seven-and-a-half-minute long. And an umpire, riding a horse, monitors the game. Usually, one team consists of three or four players. The polo played in the northern areas is different in many respects from international polo. Here, the game is divided into two stints of 25 minutes each with a break of 10 minutes between them. Unlike international polo, one cannot change one’s horse — only if the horse receives serious injuries. Rules are few and there is no referee or umpire. The only official is a time-keeper. There are 12 players, six from each team. A player can hit his opponent with his mallet, give him a push, and run over his opponent’s horse. And the 12 players pursue the ball in such a frantic manner that it leaves spectators in awe. Generally, a swollen face, a bandaged head or a limping horse shows that the match was interesting enough.

Polo originated in Persia in 500BC. Polo is basically a Balti word, meaning ball. In Persian it is known as “Chowgan”. Initially, polo was played as part of the training of imperial cavalry guards. From Persia, polo spread into far-flung lands like China, Japan, Egypt, and Byzantine and became a royal pastime. Even in the subcontinent, it is said that Sultan Qatubudin Abik died after falling off a pony while he was playing polo. In China, the death of a court favourite during a polo match in 910 made the king order the beheading of all players. In the 13th century, polo was in vogue in Central Asia after being introduced there by Muslim conquerors. From Central Asia, perhaps, it made inroads into the northern areas of Pakistan.

Chitral, Gilgit, and the northern areas are the places where polo is played in its age-old style. How much the people of these region love this game can be judged from the fact that in the northern areas in the heart of each village and locality we find a polo ground. It is obviously a sacrifice keeping in view the scarcity of land. As in the case of Chitral, 70 per cent of the population lives below the poverty line and earns less than Rs 5,000 a month. Their lavish spending on polo shows that these poor people consider this game something mythical.

When a polo match starts, local musicians play traditional tunes. When a goal is scored, the player who has scored it gallops towards the centre line holding the ball in his right hand, and on reaching the centre line tosses the ball into the air and hits it with his mallet while in the background musicians play a special tune for him. This is called Thompq in Chitral.

A version of this article also appeared in Dawn of July 30, 2006.

Amid a rush-hour storm, nothing to do but wait it out

The Washington Post January 27, 2011 | Josh White Stuck.

On the George Washington Parkway. On 16th Street NW. Interstate 66, too.

Buses, cars, people – just plain stuck as snow, sleet and ice covered roadways and knocked down trees across the region, turning the evening commute into a seemingly endless nightmare.

At about 6:15 p.m., Steve Roberts, 42, began to merge his Dodge Ram pickup onto the George Washington Parkway en route to Sterling. Two hours later, he was still waiting to merge. in our site escape the car

“I hear there’s an accident up by the Parkway and 495, and that’s blocking everything up,” said Roberts, who began his commute at the Pentagon. “I’ve got a long way before I get home.” Roberts filled up his gas tank Wednesday morning, expecting weather-related traffic on the drive home. He didn’t expect to have hours in which to listen to the radio or to chat with other bored, stranded motorists.

“It is what it is,” Roberts said.

The parkway was eerily quiet and peaceful as heavy snow fell, illuminated only by headlights. Some people shut off their cars, and others ventured a few feet from their cars to stretch their legs. But most were glued to cell phones, talking or texting.

On the shoulder near the Theodore Roosevelt Island, sat an electronic sign flashing:

“SNOW & ICE, SLOW DOWN” Traffic had barely moved for four hours.

In the District, at the intersection of Connecticut Avenue and Albemarle Street NW in Van Ness, buses and cars were tangled in every direction, blocking the intersection for hours. One bus blocked three lanes of Connecticut Avenue for more than two hours. A pair of Metrobus drivers – who declined to identify themselves because they said they were not authorized to speak to reporters – called it the worst travel conditions they have seen in the city during their combined 23 years behind the wheel.

“This is just bad,” said one seven year veteran as he tried to push a car that got stuck in front of his bus. “Last year was bad, but they stopped us just in time.” Metro had decided to end bus service at 9:30 p.m. The drivers had little more than an hour to go to finish up their route, but it didn’t matter. They weren’t moving.

Bob Kozak and Joanne Ivancic had a choice to make on their commute from the District to Frederick: Route 50 or the George Washington Parkway. They, like many others, chose poorly. see here escape the car

After more than two hours they had inched only two-tenths of a mile along the parkway. Their 1996 Mercury Sable – with 200, 237 miles on the odometer – sat amid an unmoving chain of traffic.

Still, they were all smiles. They used the time to talk, work, and read. Ivancic popped out of the passenger seat to snap photos.

“There’s the snow, and a lot of pretty colors, all these red lights, like a necklace off into the future,” Ivancic said. “We’re having fun with it. What else can we do?” The two had traveled to the District as representatives of Advanced Biofuels USA, advocating for greener energy sources. They usually work out of an office at home or just a few minutes away in Frederick. This had to be some sort of cosmic punishment for the convenience they generally enjoy.

“We’re always hearing about horrible commutes and the weather,” Ivancic said. “I guess this is payback.” Though lighthearted about their plight, Ivancic said she was plotting a way to escape the car to use “the facilities” and was glad they had decided to gas up. They were just hoping to put a few more miles on the Sable sometime in the next few hours.

One of the worst traffic jams was on 16th Street NW, where drivers were in bumper-to-bumper gridlock from the White House to the Maryland state line. It took one Washington Post editor 5 hours 20 minutes to make a six-mile trip home along that route.

A fallen tree had injured a man in his car near the intersection of Military Road and Oregon Avenue, and disabled buses and abandoned cars on 16th, Georgia Avenue and East-West Highway added to the clog in the area.

One District resident left his office at Penn Quarter at 5:30 p.m. At 10, he had reached only the intersection of 16th and Montague. He was getting desperate – he lives a few miles away near the intersection of Connecticut Avenue and Military Road NW.

Through Facebook, his wife sent a message to a friend who lives near the logjam on Longfellow Street. His house had no power but the two men reunited anyway and had cold chili and a glass of wine while they waited out the storm.

The first buses began to arrive at the West Falls Church Metro station around 9:15 p.m. Many of the dozens of riders had been waiting nearly four hours.

Word had spread that Connector buses were suspending service at 9 p.m., but officials said the buses would keep running until everyone stuck at the station made it home.

Riders with smartphones and Web access passed along updates to fellow commuters from the connector web site or loved ones monitoring the news.

Around 8:30 p.m. came word that three buses were stuck about a quarter-mile away, and another half-dozen buses were stuck behind an accident on the Dulles Toll Road.

Many passengers on an inbound bus from Tysons Corner abandoned it and simply walked the remaining quarter to half-mile on the Interstate 66 ramp to the train station in hopes of catching Metro back to their homes in Alexandria, Arlington and the District.

The final bus pulled out about 10:30 after sitting for a half hour. And drivers still collected fares even though buses were so crowded that riders were practically sitting in each others laps.

Staff writers Jura Koncius, Tim Craig and Victoria Benning contributed to this story.

Josh White

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18 comments posted

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  1. April 30th, 2010 11:39 am

    Shandur festival is the only event in the northern areas which never stopped itself from taking place due to recent terrorism wave. Events like this give us hope that Pakistan is still a country where people love the fun and sports/cultural activities. May Allah bless Pakistan and may this event passes peacefully this time of year as well.

  2. Yasir says:
    May 10th, 2009 12:24 pm

    Dear Amina & fouzia,

    I’ve recently visited Gilgit and adjacent areas (Mar 09). These places are really beautiful and worth watching. The people are very hospitable and there is no issue of being unsafe there.
    I really appreciate ur gesture about Pakistan Amina. I feel the same in Gilgit but i must told you ppl are not separate from us. u are a part of us. Gilgit is as important as Karachi is. I can show you several important cities and sites which are in the mainstream but no development has been done so far from last 60 years. Actually we have scarcity of true leaders. Current leaders are looking for their benefits not people benefits.
    Pak Army is the true picture of unity. No one is Balti, Punjabi, Pashtun etc. in Pak Army. They are Pakistani i.e why Balti shed their blood in Kargil and the others are shedding their blood in Siachin.
    I hope you will understand all such things. So be Pakistani, Proud Pakistani. That is the ladder for success.
    Your well wisher.

Comment Pages: [3] 2 1 » Show All



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