The Architectural Heritage of Bahawalpur

Posted on November 7, 2006
Filed Under >Roshan Malik, Architecture, Culture & Heritage, Travel
100 Comments
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Roshan Malik

Bahawalpur State (1833-1955) has a unique architecture blended with Italian style. It was comprised of three districts (Bahawalpur, Bahawalnagar and Rahim Yar Khan). The last ruler Nawab Sir Sadiq Muhammad Khan Abbasi V ruled the State (1907-55) before it merged into the unitary province of Pakistan. The State reached the zenith of its glory under his rule, as he transformed Bahawalpur into an excellence of learning and centre of architecture. Various schools, colleges, palaces, mosques, hospitals and a library and university were built during his time.

Since ATP readers have already been talking about Bahawalpur architecture through the Photo Quiz on Noor Mahal and then again on the Baghdad-ul-Jadeed Railway station, it makes sense to talk about this scope and history of this architectural heritage at greater length.

Sadiqgarh Palace (Sleeping Beauty Castle) is situated at Dera Nawab Sahib (Ahmedpur East), about 30 miles away from Bahawalpur, was the headquarters of the State. More than 1000 employees were deployed for the maintenance and beautification of the Palace and its lush green lawns. Nearly 100 rooms were decorated with crystal chandeliers, drapes, paintings and carpets.

After Nawab’s death, the Palace had been sealed by the government for many decades due to a dispute among heirs. Many antiques had been stolen from the Sadiqgarh Palace and were sold in cities like Lahore, Karachi and Islamabad. The building of that glory now gives a deserted and shabby look surrounded by wild shrubs. The palace desperately needs maintenance and repair for the restoration of its grandeur.

Noor Mahal and Gulzar Mahal are the most elegant buildings in Bahawalpur built in the Italian style. Both the buildings are now under the control of Army. However, the army purchased the Noor Mahal some years back by paying Rs. 120 million to the heirs. It is unique in its architecture and is splendid with beautiful lawns and driveways.

The late Nawab established various educational institutes in the State such as Islamia University Bahawalpur, Sadiq Public School Bahawalpur, Sadiq Egerton College Bahawalpur, Sadiq Dane High School Bahawalpur, Jamia Masjid al Sadiq Bahawalpur. The Central Library Bahawalpur is another landmark of Bahawalpur architecture which was built in 1924. This is the second largest library in Punjab having various manuscripts and rare books.

The famous Fort Derawar was once the capital of Bahawalpur State. It was built in thirteenth century by the Rajputs of Jaiselmer. The Nawabs of Bahawalpur conquered it in eighteenth century. It was a birth place of many Nawabs. The rulers of Bahawalpur give great importance to Derawar as their royal cemetery is near Derawar.

Derawar is about 65 miles away from Bahawalpur in Cholistan desert. The historic Derawar Fort, enormous and impressive structure in the heart of Cholistan desert, is rapidly crumbling and if the immediate preventative measures are not taken, the edifice will be destroyed and the historians, researchers and sightseers deprived of the view of the legacy of the bygone era.


The legacy of Bahawalpur state has been in ruins like many other historical places of the country. These building have potential to attract a great deal of tourists. But what the heirs and the government need is a good planning and political will. Otherwise it will turn into sands like many other forts in Cholistan like Maujgarh, Dingarh, Islamgarh and Marot.

The cluster of 6 pictures, above, includes: (1) One of the still-intact but crumbling walls of Fort Derawar, (2) Aerial view of the fort, (3) Mosque Derawar, (4) Entrance to Fort Derawar with potholes, (5) Services Club Multan, was once Rest House of Nawab of Bahawalpur, (6) Sadiq Public School, Bahawalpur.

Roshan Malik is a development practitioner from the Bahawalpur region.

100 responses to “The Architectural Heritage of Bahawalpur”

  1. basit says:

    Cycle Rickshaws have again started plying on the roads of Ahmedpur East and other adjacent towns on the orders of Lahore High Court Bahawalpur Bench. Because it is a source of income for poverty stricken and unemployed youth of the area.

  2. faheem says:

    Assalam-o-alikum

    i really love my city BAHAWALPUR which deserves a lot from this country as it was first independent state when pakistan became into extistance, it helped a lot to the govt. as well as people migrated in this sweet city.It is such a cool place because of nice high valued SARAIKI people who ever came never gone back settle down here.Bahawalpur STADIUM is the first stadium of pakistan but no body knows is there any stadium in Bahawalpur same like with ZOO. Never govt. of pakistan think about this matter what we people of bahawalpur want whats our rights.Every thing Bahawalpur has now it was before pakistan our great Nawab Sir Sadiq Muhammad Khan Abbasi did , he knew very well thats why that time he done such wounderful and amazing jobs which even cannot be done now.
    I m in englnad but i really miss my great city great SARAIKI people. BAHAWALPUR is a land of SARAIKI people so their right is first same as all over the world first nation remains always first, but we have nothing…
    INSHA-ALLAH very soon SARAIKI will get thier true right back as they deserve.

  3. Shahla Noaman says:

    i really miss my city, where i have started my schooling, completed my graduation and done my Masters in English literature, i really love to visit Bahawalpur, it is a great, impressive work done by Roshan malik sahib, keep it up sir, i miss my city here in abroad…….all my good memmories are related with that land of vast heritage and splendid culture.

  4. Roshan says:

    A nice documentary by PTV
    Explore Pakistan: Bahawalpur
    http://youtube.com/watch?v=_rcR612iklE

  5. ayesha sajid says:

    My association with Bahawalpur goes as far back as 1977 when my fathers unit Probyns Horse was posted there. We were given a room in the Noor Mehel inside the cantonment and lived there for a few months before being alloted a house in the old Bilal colony.
    Since my mothers family’s migrated to Bahawalpur and settled there, there was an area named after them , Mohallah Nawaban, Raen Basera, right behind the zoo.
    The memories are so many , from the cycle rickshaws to the women who came to our homes with the embroidered clothes, from the great many lions the zoo to the Farid gate and its lights.
    After years of nursing these memories , i went back to Bahawalpur , the year before last for the Cholistan Jeep Rally with my husband.
    It was a different Bahawalpur from what i remembered. The Noor and Gulzar Mehels were much better maintained, even though they were not open for the civilian tourists , the road infront of Farid gate was wide and there were so many shops !!
    On to the rally , we camped at the base of the Great Deerawar Fort , where the family of the present Nawab (which part of the family, i have no idea as they all claim to be direct decendents)were staying. The Rally was well organised, with a tented village and fire works from top of the fort at night in addition to a cultural show.

    Good Lord , i didint mean to go on and on but Bahawalpur brings nostalgia to me, inspite of the sand dunes , it is so wellcoming and i miss the smell of the impending dust storm and the sing song dialect of every man and woman on the street !

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