I am averse to the ratings and rankings that characterize the junk-journalism of our times. Much like the embedded style of reporting such a view remains partial and often ignorant of the nuances and layers of subtext that are almost unachievable in the pop-view of the world.
Readers might question this apparent paradox as on the one hand I am making my top-five list and on the other I am also being critical. Well, well, this is kosher from a South Asian perspective as we remain a mythical-modern bundle of contradictions.
The real reason for me to ‘submit’ my top 5 is the inquiring spirit of Mayank Austen Soofi whom I don’t know and have never met but who originally asked me to do so for his blog. But I am quite empathetic to his efforts at understanding Pakistan. At least he ventures into the ‘other’ territory and unlike the mainstream media and writers, does not view Pakistan as a threatening collage of burqa clad women, terrorism and gun toting radicals. Even if my young friend employs a cliched format in this series, it is better than ‘high writing’ churning more cliches!
So, here are my top five reasons for loving Pakistan. Maybe ATP readers will add their own reasons to this list.
The Civilization
Pakistan is not a recent figment but a continuation of 5000 years of history: quite sheepishly, I admit, that I am an adherent of the view held by many historians that the Indus valley and the Indus man were always somewhat distinct from their brethren across the Indus. I do not wish to venture into this debate but I am proud as an inheritor of Harappa, Mohenjo-Daro and Mehrgarh (not strictly in this order) and this makes me feel rooted and connected to my soil as well as ancient human civilizations and cultures.
It also makes me happy that no matter how much the present-day media hysteria about Pakistan (and “natives” in general) diminishes my country and region, nothing can take away this heritage and high points of my ancestral culture. Pakistan is not just Indus civilization – it is a hybrid cultural ethos: the Greek, Gandhara, the central Asian, Persian, Aryan and the Islamic influences merge into this river and define my soul – how can I not be proud of this?
The People
I simply love the Pakistani people – they are resilient, diverse and most entrepreneurial. They have survived calamities, famines, upheavals, injustices and exploitation and yet, by and large, retain a sense of humour. I am not naieve to say that they are totally free of the various bondages of history but they display remarkable entrepreneurial and creative potential. Most of them are “real” and rooted and yet not averse to modernity.
There is an urban revolution taking place in parts of Punjab and Sindh and the drivers are neither the state nor external donors but the people themselves. The private sector has even contributed to build an airport. There is an ugly side as well: the absence or predatory activities of the state (e.g. Karachi) has also provided a breeding ground for mafias but this is not a unique Pakistani phenomenon. From Los Angeles to Jakarata, such groups operate within the folds of urbanization.
I am proud of my people who have proved themselves in all spheres and countries – whether it is Professor Abdus Salam, the Nobel Laureate or Shazia Sikander, the miniaturist of international fame or Mukhtaran Mai who has proved her mettle in giving a tough time to forces of oppression.
The Spirituality
There is inordinate focus on Pakistani madrassahs, the pro-Taliban groups and the violent jihadis. How representative are these groups? Only Pakistanis know that such groups are marginal to the mainstream attachment to and practice of religion. The rural folk are still steeped in Sufi worldview and many versions of Islam exist within the same neighborhood. Of course there is manipulated curse of sectarian violence but that mercifully is not embedded despite the attempts of big external players and the octopus-like state agencies.
Ordinary Pakistanis, such as me, value their Islamic beliefs, are God fearing and follow what is essentially a continuation of the centuries old traditions of spirituality that survives in the folk idiom, in the kaafis of Bulleh Shah, and in the verses of Bhitai and Rahman Baba. Our proverbs, day-to-day beliefs are all mixed and laced with history, oral tradition, Sufi lore and of course Islamic simplicity. It is another matter that there are individuals who want to hijack this thread and impose their nonsense on us – but we as a people have resisted that and shall continue to do so. After all we inherited the confluence of ancient religions and practices.
Pakistan is where Buddha taught and Taxila shined, and where Nanak preached and the great saints – Usman Hajweri, Fariduddin Ganj Shakar, Bhitai and Sarmast – brought people into the fold of Islam. Despite the revisionist, constructed history by extremists in India, the sword had little to do with Islam’s rise in this region.
The Natural Beauty
Well the spirituality of my homeland is not just restricted to the intangible belief systems. It also reflects in the splendors of Mother Nature. From the pristine peaks in the north to the mangroves of the Indus delta, Pakistan blends climates, geographies, terrains in its melting pot. Within hours of leaving an arid zone, one enters into a fertile delta. And again a few more hours put you right in front of otherworldly mountains. The deserts of Cholistan radiate the moonlight and the surreal wildernesses of Balochistan are nothing but metaphors of spiritual beauty.
Where else can I experience the aroma of wet earth when the baked earth cracks up to embrace every droplet and where else can one find a Jamun tree with a Koel calling the gods? An everlasting impression on my being shall remain the majestic sunrise at the Fairy Meadows amid the Karakorams and the melting gold of Nanga Parbat peak. I love this country’s rivers, streams and the fields where farmers testify their existence with each stroke, each touch of earth. I cherish trees that are not just trees but signify Buddha’s seat or the ones in graveyards nourishing the seasonal blossoms.
The Cuisine
Yes, I love the aromas and myriad scents of Thai cooking, the subtlety of the French and Lebanese or the Turkish dishes but nothing compares to the Pakistani cuisine. Forget the high sounding stuff; ghar ka khana (homemade food) no matter which strata are you from is difficult to find elsewhere.
Whether it is a simple Tandoor ki Roti with Achaar or Palak (in the Punjab) or the intricate Biryani with ingredients and spices of all hues, the food is out of this world. In my house, we were used to at least ten different rice dishes (steamed white rice/ saada/ green peas/ vegetable/ channa/ choliya/ potato Pilau), three types of Biryanis (Sindhi, Hyderabadi, Dilli or just our cook’s hybridized Punjabi version), and my grandmother’s recipe of Lambi Khichdee. The list continues.
In the Northern areas, there are Chinese-Pakistani concoctions, in the North West Frontier there is meat in its most tender and purest form. In Balochistan there is Sajji, meat grilled in earthenware at low heat until all the juices have transformed the steaks into a magic delight. And, the fruits and the sweets -the mangoes that come in dozens of varieties and colors, melons of different sizes, the pomegranates and the wild berries that still grow despite the pollution everywhere!
How could I not love this eclectic cuisine?
And Finally . . .
The sum-total of all five: I love Pakistan as this is my identity – immutable and irreversible. Simple.
Raza Rumi blogs at Jahane Rumi.
well said.
My identity is through Pakistan, regardless of where my parents came from. We lay claim to greatness on either side of the border, if others are confused by that claim, visit any number of rather remarkable sights in and around Agra, Delhi etc. I assume all of us (on either side of the border) are taught that Pakistan is a grand exercise in minority rights much before the protection of such rights became fashionable in political theory.
As for the claim that red headed people point to descent from ancient Greeks, I would point out that practically no Greeks have red hair and very very few have green eyes. I don’t think these people had to “come from” anywhere outside–there are red headed Arabs also. It just happens.
The racial claim strikes a discordant note. Pakistan is, like all important crossroads, made up of a racial mixture. I would argue that there is no such thing as Indus man, but there certainly is such a thing as group of present day people who want to claim one part of their ancestry, namely any part that could be construed as “white”, but not any part that might include, for example, Dravidians. See also the first comment.
I don’t believe for a second that the Greeks for example left any significant racial footprint in the area. There is no evidence of this and they never settled there. As for the once-in-a-while greenish eyes and red hair found among Kalash or other mountain peoples, this is a common happenstance in different parts of the world. But this idea is appealing to Pakistanis. You don’t, on the other hand, hear much about people who have undoubtedly contributed much to the gene pool of Pakistan, and much more recently, namely the Bengalis and Muslims of south Indian descent.
Story: I once taught a class which included a young man (Pakistani) whose Iranian grandfather attended medical school in Heidelberg–in the 1940s. During an excursion to visit the countryside the man was mistaken for a Jew by the other passengers, who accosted him and called for the conductor, who mishandled him and arrested him at the next station. He actually went to court on charges of being a Semite, and was faced with a concentration camp. He submitted to the whole battery of ridiculous, arbitrary racial tests, such as being measured with calipers and so on. The race doctor (maybe a decent sort who was out to save as many lives from the madness as he logically could) submitted a judgement which stated that the Iranian was “a pure Aryan albeit of a primitive type”. This decision not only saved his life, but the conductor was called in to publicly apologize and was fined.
Now for the kicker….the young man greatly admired the Nazi Germans for this! He thought it proved that Pakistanis were Aryans, and therefore “really just like whites”. In other words, he was buying into the Nazi world view, in which it is possible to not only prove relative “whiteness” but also impossible not to assume that it is better.
I liked the idea of the list but found it very vague; really you could say these things about any country–Ethiopians love their ancient culture, friendly people, rich traditions of spirituality, striking landscapes, and good food too: so do Peruvians and Hawaiians and Italians and Irish and even Eskimos probably, although the cuisine end of the list might suffer with that one.
What uniquely Pakistani things do we love about Pakistan?
For me one thing would have to be the traffic. Seriously. I know the traffic jams are hideous, but where else in the world do you get such a show of flamboyant, shall we say, “personalized” vehicles going down the road? It’s wonderful, and after prolonged stays in more than 15 countries I can say I’ve never seen anything remotely like it.
Other thoughts?
this has to be among the most pretentious/immature pieces of not-good writing that i have read in quite some time